Carnivores never want for steak in New York, but a mutton craving may leave one stumped. The rare presence of this hulking, sinewy chop on the menu of Keens is one of the reasons the old-timey Herald Square steakhouse, which dates from 1885, packs a crowd. The other is its historic allure. Back in the day, Lambs Club theater members flocked here to smoke churchwarden pipes. Now, in a nod to its roots as a tobacco haven, the ceiling is adorned with more than 90,000 of these slender relics. Inside the maze of clubby, dark wood dining rooms sit a mélange of theater memorabilia, political cartoons and oil paintings. Or, settle into the more casual pub room, where you can sip single malt from the encyclopedic Scotch collection alongside crunchy, fried egg-topped prime rib hash, eyes riveted on the voluptuous nude portrait hanging above the bar. 72 W. 36th St., 212-947-3636, keens.com
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Keen’s Porterhouse Special
